Onam, a trip down memory lane - Vattakkali

In my village, Onam celebrations were very different 30 years ago. People too. They were more forthcoming, innocent and had no hidden agendas. Their simple lifestyle did not need more than whatever they earned as daily wages. Menfolks had strong bodies streamlined with muscles all over. They could lift and carry their women in their hands for immemorial ages if they wanted to. Womenfolks were less shy but modest who took pride in their bodily curves. They wore the traditional checkered lungyi and blouse at work and home. They spoke their inner feelings aloud leaving no room for secrets. They fought more fights than they really had to but never stabbed in the back. Overall, the term 'beautiful people' befitted them well.

Onam days were the most joyful period of the year. There was no vacation from work but that did not affect the revelries. All homes had guests. All had new clothes. The village paths had women in bright coloured clothes bustling about excitingly in anticipation. In the evening they would gather at a predetermined place to perform Vattakkali, a popular village folk dance.

Vattakkali was similar to Thiruvathira in that both were performed by women lined up in a circle. But Vattakkali had no classical status as Thruvathira. The songs used were plain village songs that rendered the village life in beautifully composed verses. The images created by these songs were so captivating that even after 30 years they are vivid in memory. The composers were unknown, for many of the songs were originated many generations ago. Every age had its own expert who modified the songs to suite the life of recent times.

In our place, the performers and their family would assemble, in the evening, under a huge mango tree. The assembly consisted of all people of all ages including men, women and children. While the elder women sat on a mat, preparing and sharing paan and betel nut, the performers, mainly young women, would discuss the songs for the dance. The children would have reserved their seats in the middle of the dance ring in advance. The teenagers, men and all others would make the audience.

The lighting was provided with a few kerosene lamps. But on the final days they hired a Petromax gas light.

The lead singer was always young a woman called Leela, who had mastered all songs and sang them in a shrill but melodious voice. Everybody consulted her for song selection and the dance steps orientation for each song. She had learned all the songs and performing details from her mother Kochukalyani, who now sat among the elders. After a few minutes of discussion and consultations, a song would be finalized to start the day's sequel. Usually it would be the Onam song about Maveli. Maveli nadu vaneedum kalam .. thaka thaka thei..

Leela sang the verses and the others chorused. In a slow pace, which would eventually reach its high paced climax, the performers moved in a circle to and fro with uniform steps and actions. The hands, legs, claps, thumps and hip movements - all synchronized to make the dance a beautiful spectacle. The earth would tremble beneath their firm steps. That was a signal to the neighbourhood, which had been waiting for the beginning of the dance. They all now rushed there to occupy a place before it was too crowded.

Each song had the distinct flavour of village life. While some of them were romantic poems and folklore, some others were about the lighter side of life with witty accounts of incidents. Here is a march song of a group of drunken men who just stepped out of a Toddy shop:

Varikayaanu njangal, varikayaanu njangal
Valavanadu shappil ninnum, varikayaanu njangal
Kambi veli chaadi, lungyi pakuthi keeri,
Strap watch potti, kuruvikkoodum poyi.

വരികയാണ് ഞങ്ങള്‍, വരികയാണ് ഞങ്ങള്‍
വളവനാട് ഷാപ്പില്‍ നിന്നും, വരികയാണ് ഞങ്ങള്‍
കമ്പി വേലി ചാടി, ലുങ്കി പകുതി കീറി,
സ്ട്രാപ്പ് വാച്ച് പൊട്ടി, കുരുവിക്കൂടും പോയീ.

Here we are coming, here we are coming
From the toddy shop at Valavanad
Jumping over the fences,
Tearing away the lungyi in half
With a broken strap watch, and
The fashionable sparrow's nest hairstyle, now a mess.

That was the sketch of a real macho man! The hairstyle fashioned after a sparrow's nest was very popular in those days. It was evident in contemporary movies then. The stars like Shudhir, Soman, Naseer, Jayan, Madhu etc. had sported this hairstyle at that time. When Leela sang and others chorused this song, there would be suppressed giggles, because many of their husbands would be watching over.

The animated actions were superb! Here is another song:

"Ningalude nattilokke enthu paniyanedo?
Njangalude nattilokke katta thallalanedo.
Engineyanedee mothira kurathee
Ingane pinnangane pinningane pinnangane."

"നിങ്ങളുടെ നാട്ടിലൊക്കെ എന്ത് പണിയാണെടോ?
ഞങ്ങളുടെ നാട്ടിലൊക്കെ കട്ട തല്ലല്‍ ആണെടോ.
എങ്ങനെ ആണെടീ മോതിരക്കുറത്തീ
ഇങ്ങനെ പിന്നങ്ങനെ പിന്നിങ്ങനെ പിന്നങ്ങനെ"

"What do you do for a living in your village?
We break stones in the fields
How is that my dear friend?
This way, then that way, then this way, then that way."

These questions were repeated among the participants with varying answers. For the second question the responders had to mimic how they did the work. The typical answers were weeding, sowing, reaping etc.. with corresponding action to demonstrate how.

The Vattakkali would continue till midnight. During recess, the menfolk and children had their own version of Vattakkali to demonstrate. It was fun and a lot of entertainment.

The last Vattakkali, I had witnessed, was about 27 years ago. After that the interest level of participants and viewers receded due to the sudden transformation of Kerala society. People ceased to work in the field. They preferred to work at home. Among the young generation, many got jobs in government service. Many went to the Gulf. The agricultural lands were abandoned. Many fields were converted to residential land.

Now Vattakkali has become a folk dance item performed on stage. It is for the sake of the audience, not for community enjoyment. For the new Vattakkali, the resemblance is only in the name.

Somewhere at the back of my mind I can still hear the everlasting mesmerizing verses ..

മുങ്ങി പൊങ്ങിയപ്പോള്‍ ഒരു താമര കണ്ടല്ലോ തിത്താ തെയ്
താമരയിതളിന്മേല്‍ ഒരു വണ്ടിരുന്നല്ലോ തിത്താ തെയ്
വണ്ടിനെ പിടിപ്പതിനായ്‌ കിളി ചാടെടി തത്തമ്മേ തിത്താ തെയ്.